The beaches on the coasts of Italy are completely different from region to region, and even from kilometer to kilometer, but most don’t fit the ideal of a beach that I grew up with – miles of wide, open beach and fine sand confronting a turbulent ocean. I have divided most of my life between the (SF) Bay Area and San Diego, so it’s arguable that my viewpoint is definitely warped, but it took some adjustment when I first started traveling around to Italy’s beaches.
Depending on the side of the coast you find yourself on, you may not find wide, open spaces and fine sand, but instead rocky cliffs and “sand” whose grains are the size of a pigeon’s egg. Often these “less than ideal” beaches have the cleanest and clearest blue water though they beg for a water sock to protect your feet.
Some of the most famous and beautiful beaches can be found off the coasts of Sardinia, on the Italian Riveria, in Sicily, and of course in Puglia. Every Italian you talk to has their favorite beach “area” in Italy that they return to time and time again. I have also found that though I love the waves and beauty of the wild ocean I grew up with, I can relax fully when I am in the Mediterranean, and float or swim for hours without tiring or constantly checking for big waves.
On the Gargano coast, the National Park in Puglia I often refer to as the “ankle of the Boot,” there are many little hidden beaches, accessible only by boat. Boats with or without drivers can be rented and many hop around from beach to beach as they go up and down the coast. Especially in popular tourist areas, a “beach drop-off” can be arranged with a boat owner and they will take you to a particular beach in the morning and drop you in the water directly and come back in the afternoon to pick you up.
This is a beach reachable only by boat or by a rickety stairway nestled deep within the landowners’ properties, and not visible or accessible by any public road. It was also nearby to where later we enjoyed our Spaghetti allo Scoglio – Frutti di Mare pasta at our friend’s house.
Even though it’s late evening, it was still warm and light enough to see how beautiful and serene it would be in the daytime. The owners put their boats into crevices high in the rocks so they don’t get carried away by the water or get smashed into the rocks when not in use.
This particular beach also had some tidepools and I loved watching the water spill up and over the rocks. Very hypnotizing.
The light was disappearing as we walked back up the various ramps and staircases to reach the top of the cliff and join our friends for a big pasta dinner!
I’m keeping this beach a secret.
Is there an “ideal” for a beach? Rocky, sandy? How important is space? Beautiful water?
A beach without beautiful water is pointless to me. Where my parents live the beaches are wide with tiny grains of sand but I also loved the beach in Positano that has pebbles. I’m not used to the latter but that sea is stunning.
I can deal with either rocky (reasonably sized rocks, like pebbles) or sandy, so long as there is shade!! Also, space is very important for me. Once I went to Ostia beach just outside of Rome, in June or July, and it was literally elbow to elbow… total chaos. For me, beaches are all about relaxing… and that was about as stressful as could be.
From one who no longer lives in Italy (sigh): the beaches around La Spezia can be wonderfully isolated and beautiful. Also hard to get to in some places. We lived in Lerici, with our own little cove, but the best part was getting out in a boat.
Since we moved there from San Diego, I can say that the beaches around Livorno are as close as we could find to wide open spaces and fine-ish sand. Gaeta had at least one nice beach too.
Can you tell we were military?
Oh, dear, I am a beach junkie. Literally, when I met husband I told him that my life’s mission was to search the world and find *the* best beach. I have been doing much research to be sure.
Space is very, very important. The best beach would be nearly devoid of other people (so that you’re not wondering the whole time if there’s something wrong with the water, etc that keeps people out)- and totally free of kids (sorry, I’m like that).
It would be soft sandy on the shore (white, black, red, pink, gold – all are good) and far enough out so that you can walk in to your waist.
It would have lively, colorful reefs full of fish and creatures surrounding it. The water would be super calm, clear and warm.
It would be protected on all sides by walls like you show in your photo so that I could let the dog run free while I was freediving without worrying she’d wander off.
And the sun would never, never go down.
Too much to ask?
kindly tell me if you know: POMPANI BEACH
WHERE THE WATER IS RED AND STORMY?
I SAW FOTOS AND CANT FIND IT ON THE
ITALY MAP, BUT ITS SOUTH OF ROME…
AN Y IDEAS? THANK SO MUCH