Last weekend, Easter weekend, we took our new old car for a spin in the Piemonte, Piedmont region of Italy. I think it’s a region often overlooked but with some culinary traditions (gianduja / truffles / mushrooms, anyone?) and excellent wines that can’t be ignored. And once you’re in the Langhe and Monferrato areas of Piemonte, you’ll notice the rolling hills and endless vineyards may recall another, much-hyped region (Tuscany).
At least on a sunny day.
On a less than stellar day, you’ll see how the wine Nebbiolo (deriving from the Italian word for fog, nebbia) gets its name.
This Easter the weather was definitely less than stellar, and though we planned an outing for later in the day, we decided to enjoy a nice lunch at our hotel and not risk a meal somewhere, somehow on Easter Sunday. Luckily we already knew it would be good.
And what a meal it was. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten so much when it wasn’t a wedding. Here’s what we ate:
We started with a trio of appetizers for Easter lunch – roasted peperone with bagna cauda, a typical Piemontese sauce to eat with fresh or roasted vegetables. Sometimes it’s presented as a dip, kept warm while it’s consumed, or it’s ladled directly onto the vegetables as you see here. Bagna cauda is made with garlic, anchovies, olive oil, and butter, so it’s full of umami.
The torta di Pasqua, Easter cake, made with cheese and honey is there in the top right. It had the consistency of a very fluffy quiche or soufflé.
Here’s a close-up of the other antipasto, a savory Torta di Pasqua, or rustica, is a torte with spinach, ricotta, and eggs, and a very flaky, buttery crust.
The first primo, pasta dish of the meal: Ravioli alla Piemontese, which were my highlight of the meal. I had cheated, though, and had them the day before, so I knew what I was in for. These lovely ravioli were made with a lighter non-egg pasta, and were hand-rolled and filled in the kitchen while we waited. They were drizzled lightly with a little tomato and that dark sauce is from a brasato, pot roast, and that little drizzle added so much flavor to the dish.
Our second primo, gnocchi in fonduta, melted cheese, were obviously hand formed as well and covered in a savory cheese sauce.
Many Italians eat lamb, agnello, or goat, capretta, at Easter. We were in the goat camp for that day, and I was quite glad as sometimes the flavor of lamb meat can be a little too strong for me. The roasted vegetables with the meat were trying hard to keep their form before melting in your mouth. I especially loved the borettane roasted onions. (I’m kind of addicted to them)
For the second “secondo” or meat entree, was another Piemontese specialty, Cima alla Piemontese, or sometimes called Saccocchia. Various meat products (head, brain, tongue) are mixed with chicken meat and ground out to form a log. This one surrounded with veal, baked and then sliced and garnished with artichoke hearts.
We were in a medieval building, dating back to 1000 (AD). Yes, no missing centuries from that number. I loved some of the little touches like this candle holder turned electric light.
As for dessert, by then I was just trying to stay seated at the table and as our individual tiramisu arrived, we took those heavy silver spoons and dipped, and dipped, and dipped.
Until it was all gone.
La Loggia ristorante
http://www.osso.it/
Acqui Terme, Piemonte, Italy
Wow that is some Feast!!! All looks delious. I remember how first meal in Coletta Castelbianca (Liguria) we had never tasted food like it.. it was Divine :-)
Where did you stay, and what area. I know a few bloggers in Piedmonte..
it all looks so good and is such a great coincidence – I was looking for a room for sunday night and just called and made a reservation. Unfortunately we won’t be able to eat here (bcs. I’ve already reserved at Trattorie nelle Vigne in Diana d’Alba) but the rooms look very good. How was the breakfast, do you recommend it?
Sweet greetings from Frog Hollow Farm! What a wonderful meal, and in such a delightful setting! Love the white tablecloth as a backdrop to those delicious looking plates of food. Ciao, bella!
wow. That is some meal. How did you find that restaurant? Did you see Diana?
I was in Acqui Termi last summer.
The food in that region is unreal. I still think about the ravioli.
Well, I am sure Lele and Carla enjoyed you being there as much as you enjoyed the food. It’s a special little place, LaLoggia, the hotel was home for us during our renovation trips from Germany.
It was wonderful seeing you! :)
You are so lucky to live in Italy and your food looks fabulous! I’m so jealous of both. Enjoy!
Nisrine
@anne – we actually stayed there, in the place I posted about in Acqui Terme. It was nice!
@hande – wow, did we miss each other by days? :( The breakfast was pretty good with huge cappuccinos :)
@nyc – all Diana, she was nice enough to share one of her finds.
@diana – I can’t wait for our girls’ weekend…let me know if I can help plan!
I am just back in India from a trip to Milano, Roma, Firenze and Venezia. Your blog was an import ingredient in my research! I read the entire archives for my research and the posts on “How to order an Italian coffee in Italy”, “An introduction to Italian Candy”, and “Italian Gift Guide” were the most helpful.
I arrived in Malpensa on the 3rd and stayed at San Donato a suburb of Milan (my wife had an apartment and was in Milan for the last 6 months). We visited the Duomo and unfortunately “Peck” was closed for Easter. We did stroll across the fashion quadrilateral though. Two days later We went on to Roma, Firenzie and Venice and returned to Milano. We took the EuroStar Alta Velocita Frecciarossa most of the time for our travel.
A note on food. Rightly said, the combinations of coffee are definitely unlimited. I enjoyed the “cafe normale” and “moroccino” (thanks to your post). Breakfast was Brioche and cafe througout my stay. For a meal I couldn’t go beyond the Insalata, the first plate and a bottle of Vino or Acqua. I am not much of a “Dolce” fan. However my wife splurged on the Gelatos and Granitas. She liked the Granita Di Cafe at Tazza D’Oro in Rome.
Pizzas were juicy, heavenly. Especially in the ristorantes with wood fired ovens. Probably the only time I’ve seen Brinjals (aubergines/egg plant) as toppings.
I must have had atleast 10 different labels of bottled water – Monte Verde, San Beneditto, San Pallegrino, Acqa Panna is all I can remember. Maybe the bottled waters of Italy deserve a seperate post on your blog.
Food and Wine definitely taste better in Firenze. Tuscan cooking is incredible. I love the first whiff of Basilico from the dish. Though we were vegetarians we had several options in most Bars and Restaurants. Il Pinolo the restaurant near Porta al Prato where we had atleast 6 meals had some excellent house wine. Wine Lovers and meat eaters will rejoice in the Tuscan region. Chianti wine, Cheese, Fetuccine and Lemoncello was part of most of my meals. Pizza and Cafe was for in-between meals!.
I bought a few packets of Pastiglie Leone. I couldn’t get the tins in Carrefour (San Juliano) so had to be content with the cartons. While writing this I am chewing on a Vivident Cube (Senza Zucchero)! We did bring back a wedge of Parmesan (cut freshly from the wheel), 3 bottles of Tuscan Rose, a lot of chocolates including Pocket Coffee that you mentioned in your post. As for the chocolates I couldn’t find the brands (in Carrefour) that you had mentioned in your post and peck was closed for easter.
Ofcourse we did visit most of the UNESCO heritage sites in Roma and Firenze! We had an excellent holiday and thanks to your blog, an excellent culinary experience. Thank you very much.
Can I just say that your photographs (especially the foody ones, yumyum) are totally divine! What talent!